tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1573193546035756071.post8615923783374254280..comments2024-03-21T07:30:48.866+00:00Comments on Photo-Analogue: Stand DevelopmentUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger2125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1573193546035756071.post-30367156595459723712013-06-06T10:12:11.849+01:002013-06-06T10:12:11.849+01:00I usually presoak for just a couple of minutes, al...I usually presoak for just a couple of minutes, although I've read that many photographers use 5 minutes as a standard. I use Ilford Hypam for fixer, and I don't use acid stop- with the developer diluted 1:100 there isn't the need for it, and use water instead. I have found 120 more difficult than 35mm, and, as mentioned above, I think temperature plays its part in the process.Nicholas Middletonhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09069364566487735897noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1573193546035756071.post-26355943349349347382013-06-03T20:52:05.141+01:002013-06-03T20:52:05.141+01:00I really enjoyed this post. I tried stand dev myse...I really enjoyed this post. I tried stand dev myself a couple of weeks ago, with only limited success, but you've inspired me to try again, this time with better control.<br /><br />For what it's worth, I shot RolleiRetro 120 film, 100ASA rated at 80. I diluted Rodinal 1:100 with distilled water, washed also with distilled water, and fixed with Ilford Rapid Fixer.<br /><br />Can I ask you what you used to fix, and how long you would recommend presoaking?<br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.com