Showing posts with label strut folder. Show all posts
Showing posts with label strut folder. Show all posts

Tuesday, 19 July 2016

Vest Pocket Autographic Kodak

Vest Pocket Autographic Kodak
No matter how many cameras you may have, there are times when a vest pocket edition of your larger instrument will be appreciated. That's just what the Vest Pocket Kodak is- a miniature Kodak- so flat and smooth and small as to go readily into a vest pocket, so carefully made as to be capable of the highest grade of work.
Kodaks and Kodaks Supplies, 1912
Introduced in 1912, the Vest Pocket Kodak was the first camera to use a new paper-backed roll film format commonly known as Vest Pocket film - with 'vest' as in the American term for waistcoat - with this film later being denominated by Kodak as 127. The camera takes images nominally 4x6cm in size (the negatives from my camera measure 44x66mm), with eight exposures on a roll of film, and the catalogue quoted above emphasises the ability of achieving postcard-sized enlargements from the negatives at a time most photographs would have been contact printed. The camera itself is very compact (120mm high, 64mm wide and 24mm depth when closed), and Kodak's catalogues illustrate this by showing the camera side-on captioned actual size on the page.

Vest Pocket Autographic Kodak
It opens like a flash, to a fixed focus, and instantly is ready for service. And then, just a slight pressure of the shutter release, at the upper right hand of the front standard, and your exposure is made.
Kodaks and Kodak Supplies, 1918
To operate the camera, the front standard is pulled out until the struts lock. With the shutter release located behind this standard, the shutter is prevented from being tripped while the camera is folded. Framing is by brilliant finder, also behind the front standard, which rotates through 90ยบ for portrait or landscape shots. As with most cameras of this date, frame advance is manual, with an orange window in the centre of the back for frame numbers. The side (or top, depending on how the camera is held) of the camera removes for loading, and the film has to be firmly attached to the take up spool, and both spools slide into their respective slots with the paper backing stretched between them, not the easiest of operations compared to loading a camera where the back opens.

During its fourteen-year production run a number of changes were made to the Vest Pocket Kodak and different models improving on its original, limited specifications were made alongside the basic version. These changes help to date the cameras. Like many an early Kodak camera, the Vest Pocket Kodak has numerous patent dates: on my model there are three on the shutter, and several around the red window for patents in the USA, Britain, Canada and Australia. The last patent date is 1917; often Kodak patent dates refer to patents taken out some time before the cameras these appear on were made, and are not in themselves useful except in establishing a prior, earliest possible date. Other features are more secure in dating the Vest Pocket Kodak. In 1914, Kodak brought in Autographic film, a special feature in which a narrow window could be opened to inscribe with a stylus directly onto the backing paper: a thin tissue of cabon paper between film and the backing paper would transfer this writing to the negative rebate with development. Most Kodaks other than the cheap box cameras were provided with this feature, with the Vest Pocket Kodaks gaining the Autographic window in 1915, a year after its introduction. Kodak persisted with Autographic film until the 1930s; Mischa Konig's Kodak Classics site suggests that the feature was dropped due to the increased sensitivity of film emulsions.

Vest Pocket Kodak with Autographic door open and stylus removed from holder
My example still has the Autographic stylus, often separated and lost, which is kept slotted into the edge of the opening door. The clearest identifying feature of my camera is the finish. Initially, the Vest Pocket Kodak was simply painted black enamel on all surfaces, but the Special version with better quality lenses was finished in leather. My camera has neither: it is finished with a craquelure effect which, according to Early Photography, was introduced in 1920. More secure dating may be due to the serial number - engraved on the fold out stand for portrait orientation - but I have yet to find an online resource for VPK serial numbers.

The first Vest Pocket Kodak came with a meniscus achromat lens in Kodak's ball bearing shutter; my version has the second cheapest lens option, a Rapid Rectilinear (this lens first appears in the 1918 catalogue; in 1920 a VPK with the lens was $10.58, as against the meniscus at $9.49, reduced to $9.50 and $8.00 respectively, in 1921 when the focusing Special was introduced). The apertures are marked in U.S. stops 8, 16 and 32, equivalent to f11, f16 and f22, although the lens' maximum aperture is clearly wider than the widest stop: as with the meniscus lens, the aperture was restricted to improve definition. The stops are also marked with Portrait/Average View, Distant View and Clouds/Marine View, as a guide for the user. The fixed focus lens appears to be set at a distance appropriate to group shots: the settings around the lens imply that infinity focus is not achievable by using the largest aperture, which I did find to be the case.

Rapid Rectilinear lens in Ball Bearing shutter
The Kodak Autotime Scale greatly reduces the liability of error in exposure, as it automatically indicates the proper time and stop opening for subjects under any condition of outdoor photography. It is exceedingly simple to use. The speed indicator is merely set at the point on the scale indicating the kind of light prevailing and the diaphragm indicator at the point indicating the character of the subject.
Kodaks and Kodak Supplies, 1912
The Ball Bearing shutter has just two speeds, 1/25th and 1/50th, marked Clear and Brilliant respectively, with both B and T settings. According to the manual, if "the subject is in the shadow, or during cloudy weather it will be necessary to make a timed exposure", which shows how limited the conditions wherw it was possible to use the camera handheld with the films of the time, especially bearing in mind the caveat that "The markings are for Summer at mid-day. During Winter or for morning or afternoon use next larger aperture than indicated". The advice for using the T or B settings are to use a 'stable support'. The Vest Pocket Kodak features neither cable release socket nor tripod mount, but adaptors for these were available as accessories; there is a detailed section in the manual for timed exposures, firstly in interiors, giving guide exposures based on the number of windows, colour of the walls, and the light outside, and then a shorter section for conditions for timed exposure outside.

The first films I tested in the Vest Pocket Kodak showed some light leaks, but as these were largely from the edges of the negatives, this was possibly a result of cutting and re-rolling 120 film to 127 backing paper and spools, and perhaps not rolling these tightly enough, rather than problems with the camera itself. In the second image below, I used Ilford Delta 3200 to shoot handheld indoors, albeit close to a window, at the widest aperture, a relatively slow f11, which does seem to demonstrate how close the fixed focus is. It also shows that with modern, faster emulsions, an old camera with a slow lens becomes more flexible: when made, although equipped with a T setting for long exposures, it would have been primarily intended for taking photographs outside in sunny conditions. Faster films increase the situations that these cameras can be used in and at the same time I find that most films' latitude mitigates the effects of overexposure due to the limited shutter speeds.

Vest Pocket Kodak with Fomapan 200
Vest Pocket Kodak with Ilford Delta 3200
However, trying out some other films showed that there were more light leaks, which seemed to be getting worse, possibly due to the corners of the bellows being quite brittle and, with unfolding and folding the camera numerous times, these pinholes became more prominent, as in the image below. The leather at the corner folds of the bellows had mostly worn away to the fabric beneath. As the Vest Pocket Kodak does not open in the same way a more conventional folding camera does, it's provided with a circular door on the back which the red window sits in: this can be removed by rotating it and it provides access to the lens from the inside, probably for cleaning, but just conceivably to remove and replace it - although nothing I've read would suggest this was commonplace. However, this doesn't expose very much of the bellows from the inside, and so, to tackle the light leaks, I took the camera apart to better identify and attempt to fix them.

Vest Pocket Kodak with Ilford Delta 3200
To disassemble the camera, there are two screws on the bottom of the body that secures the section with the struts and bellows. Taking these screws out, once the top plate on the other side has been removed, as if for loading film, the whole bellows section slides out.

Vest Pocket Kodak - disassembled
I also used this opportunity to clean the lens. Two screws fix the shutter unit to the front standard of the camera, with the retaining ring on the rear of the lens securing it to the bellows with a square plate behind. The plate around the lens on the shutter is fixed with four screws - the two lower ones have sleeves - and once removed, I saw how easy it was to make the minor alteration needed to use the lens to its full aperture. The aperture lever ring (bottom left in the image below) has a small projecting stop to the left of the pointer; I simply flattened this stop so it would rotate fully (given that there is a gap to do so on the front standard) and open up the lens to f8 (or possibly f7.7, as with the Kodak Anastigmat lens that a more expensive version of the camera featured). I could see that there was a previous repair to the bellows on the inside to one corner. For my repair, as the bellows were still sound in themselves, I used acrylic ink to paint over the holes that I could see and fill the weave of the cloth.

Rapid Rectilinear lens in Ball Bearing Shutter partially disassembled
After reassembling the camera, I shot some 35mm Ilford Mark V film rolled with 127 backing paper as a test, which showed that the pinholes had been mitigated, but using the camera in bright sunlight still gave me some light leaks. As these seem to emanate from the corners of the bellows, taking the camera apart again, I ensured that I coated both the inside and outside of the corners with the acrylic ink once again, using a small torch to help to work out exactly where the light was getting in.

Vest Pocket Kodak with Ilford Mark V film
After making these repairs, I also taped over the inside of the Autographic window, and used the Vest Pocket Kodak on last week's 127 Day. There wasn't any evidence of light leaks, although I did take the precaution of keeping the camera folded between exposures. Shooting three full-length films (rather than short test lengths) in the camera demonstrated two other issues: problems with focus and film flatness. With the standard fully extended, the lens is not set to infinity: it appears to be focussed at around two metres. At the smallest aperture of f22, far distances are nearly in focus, no doubt to an acceptable amount for contact prints or small enlargements. One solution to using this fixed focus lens at wider apertures and to still be able to focus at distances would be not to extend the struts fully, difficult to achieve evenly on both sides of the camera, and pull the lens standard back by just 3-4mm by my calculations. The problems with film flatness show up in some of the straight lines being curved and distorted; there are linear pressure springs in both spool ends of the camera which could be tightened to help keep the tension on the film.

The Vest Pocket Autographic Kodak proved to be extremely popular: Camera-Wiki states that 1,750,000 were sold, making it relatively easy to find today, a century on. It also became known as the 'soldier's camera', its ubiquity in the First World War due to being compact and inconspicuous, even with the strictures placed on photography by the British Army (the German Army took a different attitude, with photography by private soldiers being encouraged to combat boredom and engender camaraderie), although most Vest Pocket Kodaks would have probably been carried by US soldiers after entering the war in 1917. The format and strut-folding design of the Vest Pocket Kodak inspired many other cameras - often better equipped - such as the Piccolette - and, in part, must have paved the way for smaller cameras and smaller film sizes, encouraging photographs to be enlarged, not contact printed. The Vest Pocket Kodak's legacy still lives on, if only just, after 104 years, in the admittedly very limited but continued production of 127 format film.

Vest Pocket Autographic Kodak with Ilford FP4 Plus
Vest Pocket Autographic Kodak with Ilford FP4 Plus
Vest Pocket Autographic Kodak with Ilford HP5 Plus
Vest Pocket Autographic Kodak with Ilford HP5 Plus

Sources/further reading:
The Vest Pocket Kodak website
Vest Pocket Kodak page on Early Photography
Vest Pocket Kodak on Camera-Wiki
Kodak Collector's Kodak Catalogues
Mischa Konig's Kodak Classics site

Sunday, 5 June 2011

Foth Derby - Part two

Foth Derby II
Having repaired the cloth shutter to my Foth Derby, I ran a roll of Efke R100 film through it. The aspect of shooting with this camera which needs most attention to those unfamiliar with it is cocking the shutter.

Unlike more modern cameras, where the shutter is 'cocked' as a consequence of winding on the film, and so appears a seamless operation not noticed by the user, most cameras the age of the Foth Derby require the shutter to be cocked manually (the exception being rotary shutters typically found on box cameras). With leaf shutters, this is done by turning a lever on the side of the lens, a simple operation. On a focal plane shutter, cocking it involves turning a knob to wind the shutter curtains past the film gate, where they travel back at speed with a gap between them to expose the film when the shutter release is pressed.

Foth Derby shutter unit showing the pin and corresponding holes for selecting different shutter speeds.
On the Foth Derby, the knob has to be turned through three quarters before it catches. Turning this has to be done in one swift decisive movement, which takes a little practice; the springs tensioning the shutter are quite strong, and if the shutter knob slips before it's wound all the way until it catches, the shutter curtains slip backwards- potentially with a gap between them, accidentally exposing the film. On my camera, someone had cut away crudely the leather from under the shutter knob, done, I imagine, to make it easier to turn. In my restoration of the camera I painted the bare metal black to make this less obvious. My technique for cocking the shutter is to turn the camera one way while turning the knob the other. It's interasting to note that the last incarnation of the Foth Derby, the Gallus Derby-Lux had a shutter knob that stands rather more proud from the camera's top plate, making it a similar size to the winding knob.

Middlesex Hospital Chapel, Efke R100, developed in Rodinal 1:25
Site of Railway Buildings, Hackney, Efke R100, developed in Rodinal 1:25

Friday, 13 May 2011

Foth Derby

Foth Derby with f3.5 Foth Anastigmat lens
The Foth Derby is a strut-folding camera for 127 film produced by C.F. Foth of Berlin during the 1930s. Unusually for compact cameras of that date, it features a focal plane shutter with speeds of 1/25th-1/500th of a second, and 'B'. The camera pictured above is a type 2 Derby, with a Foth Anastigmat f3.5 lens, self timer and telescopic viewfinder.

I bought the camera 'as is' from a certain auction site, and it arrived in working condition, but in need of a little repair. The shutter comprises two cloth curtains, one of which had deteriorated. This was more than just a few pinholes, so I decided to disassemble the camera to see if I could remedy the problem.

Camera with lens and lensboard removed
The first step was to remove the lens, held by three screws including the long focus stop. The lens was relatively clear, and I simply separated the front and back elements for a light clean. I then removed the lens board, held on by four screws. Once the lens had been removed, it was easier to see the condition of the shutter curtains. From the front of the camera, the surface of the shutter cloth was cracked; held up against the light there were lots of pinholes. The other curtain which covers the film when the shutter is cocked was fine: possibly without a lens cap, light through the lens caused the deterioration of the one curtain, the other being rolled out of the way.

Close up showing the cracked surface of the coating on the inside of the cloth shutter curtain.
Pinholes in the shutter curtain seen against the light
I thought that the four screws that can be seen through the front of the camera might enable me to remove the shutter, but these screws hold the bellows to the shutter. Opening the back of the camera, I removed the spool holders to either side, then from the front of the camera, I unscrewed the six screws either side of the bellows, covered by the lensboard with the lens collapsed. These six screws hold the film gate and rollers around the shutter unit. Having removed this, the shutter unit was still held to the camera body by something. This was the self-timer, secured with a screw through the top plate into the shutter. Having unscrewed this I could remove the shutter.

Foth Derby disassembled
Foth Derby shutter unit
With the film gate removed, the whole of the shutter curtain was exposed. The next stage of disassembly would have been to remove the shutter curtains; however I wanted to attempt a repair without doing this if possible. For the repair I used black acrylic paint, thinned with water to the consistency of milk, which I thought would be flexible enough for occasional use. The paint was applied to the back of the curtain, i.e. on the other side of the fabric from the cracked surface, which I left as it was. There were so many holes it was simpler to paint the whole surface of the curtain. One coat of paint left some holes visible against the light, and I gave the cloth another three coats. Once the paint was dry, the shutter curtain appeared to be flatter than before, presumably the fibres of the cloth swelled with the moisture from the paint, then tightened in the process of drying.

Shutter repaired with acrylic paint
I polished both the metalwork and the leather while the camera was disassembled after gluing down some of the leather, which was peeling, and the light seals inside, then put it back together after leaving it overnight as a precaution against the fumes from the glue and polish affecting the shutter mechanism, lens or anything else.

Foth Derby continued